Du 22/04/2009 au 25/04/2009

Ueli Steck und Simon Anthamatten nominated for the „Piolets d’Or“ 2009

As a real celebration of worldwide mountaineering, the Piolets d’Or undertakes to its defend fundamental values. This revitalised 17th annual event will bring together mountaineers from all four corners of the Earth in a veritable festival. Conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities will be shared between Courmayeur (Italy) and Chamonix-Mont-Blanc (France), from 22nd to 25th April 2009.

Ueli Steck und Simon Anthamatten are nominated because of their great first ascent in the alpin style of Tengkampoche Northface (6500m), Khumbu Valley, Nepal. For Ueli Steck this is – after 2005 – his second nomination. In 2005 he was nominated for his Khumbu-Express (Nepal): Solo first ascent of Cholatse Northface (6640m), solo first ascent of east face of Tawoche (6505m) and north-west-face of Ama Dablam (break off at 5900m, due to bad weather).

Last year the „Piolet d’Or“ ground to a halt. Due to the critical view expressed by several former winners of the price the organisers were not able to set up a new concept on time. But the organisers took this criticism very seriously. They put together new rules and a new definition of the award. For the first time the AAJ is officially supporting the Piolets d’Or, in keeping with the new spirit of promoting a taste for adventure, a desire for exploration and the art of climbing summits, rather than the spirit of competition. 



The purpose of the Piolets d'or is to introduce the big climbs of the year achieved throughout the mountains ranges of the world. Its aim is to celebrate the taste for adventure and the desire for exploration in the art of climbing summits. It is a celebration of Mountaineering. The spirit of the Piolet d’Or finds its inspiration in the rich history of mountaineering. It is about celebrating the spirit of a rope party of sharing and solidarity, by promoting the beauty of an individual or collective act. 

In modern alpinism, the style and the means used is more important than the accomplishment of an objective. It Is not any more about succeeding at all cost, using financial tricks, techniques (oxygen, fixed ropes, altitude carriers, drugs…) or massive human means (Sherpa, altitude carriers). 

The Piolets d’Or give a value to everyone’s imagination in the research of innovative itineraries, encourages saving all means, and building on the experience in the process. 


Criteria for assessment of performances


The climbs will be estimated without any discrimination of origin, on the basis of several criteria studied separately as well as a whole:
• Elegance of the style
• Spirit of exploration: originality of the itinerary and/or of the summit, creativity, innovation
• Involvement and autonomy
• High technical level
• Pertinence of the itinerary considering the obvious dangers
• Saving of means
• Transparency in the used means
• Respect of men, partners, and members of other rope parties, carriers and local persons involved
• Respect of the environment
• Respect of future generations of mountaineers by leaving them the possibility to live the same adventures

The members of the Jury are all personalities in the world of mountaineering. Renowned mountaineers and journalists, they are informed and impassioned.

Direct link for further information about the nominees Ueli and Simon >>>